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Créer bio, c’est pas coton
publié le jeudi 25 mars 2010

La quatrième édition du Festival Daoulaba s’est tenue du 5 au 7 mars. Une initiative de la styliste Awa Meïte, qui cherche à promouvoir le coton bio au Mali.

Rien, si ce n’est sa nationalité malienne, ne la prédisposait à s’intéresser à la production du coton. Pure citadine qui a grandi à Bamako et étudié à New York, Awa Meïte aurait dû être architecte – si elle avait écouté ses parents – ou sociologue – si elle avait poursuivi ses études après l’obtention de son BA (Bachelor of Arts, bac + 4). Aujourd’hui, cette styliste reconnue a fait du coton plus que son métier  : une philosophie. Sa robe, ses bijoux – jusqu’à sa carte de visite ornée de bouts de coton tissé – sont là pour le démontrer.

Pour la quatrième année consécutive, Awa et son association, Routes du Sud, ont organisé le Festival Daoulaba*, du 5 au 7 mars. Trois journées de débats, de musique et de défilés de mode consacrés au coton et, pour cette édition, à celles qui le produisent. Raison pour laquelle le festival a été délocalisé à Koulikoro (sur les bords du fleuve Niger) et dans le village de Chô. « Continuer à le tenir à Bamako n’avait plus de sens », affirme Awa.

Donner un sens à sa vie  : voilà ce qui la guide depuis toujours. Une manière comme une autre, peut-être, de « tuer » la mère – la célèbre intellectuelle Aminata Traoré. « C’est génial d’être sa fille. Mais je n’ai pas envie qu’on s’intéresse à moi parce que c’est ma mère. » Choyée durant son enfance, Awa a sans cesse tenté de tracer sa voie. Quand elle est revenue des États-Unis à l’âge de 22 ans, elle a pris son sac à dos et, six mois durant, a découvert un pays qu’elle ne connaissait pas  : le sien. « C’était à la fois très dur et d’une richesse incroyable. J’ai découvert l’état du milieu rural, que je n’avais jamais côtoyé. »

Quête d’alternative

À son retour à Bamako, Awa s’essaye à la peinture, vend – à sa grande surprise – ses tableaux, puis se lance dans le design  : elle conçoit des vêtements, des bijoux, des sacs à main, du mobilier… Des créations made in Mali, comme ces colliers de coton taille XXL. « J’utilise les outils de fabrication traditionnels pour créer des objets modernes », précise-t-elle.

En 2009, elle retrouve la brousse. « Je cherchais du coton bio pour mes créations. Sur les conseils d’un ami, je me suis rendue à Chô où j’ai rencontré des femmes totalement démunies. » Elle leur dit qu’elle n’a pas beaucoup d’argent mais qu’elle veut travailler avec elles. « Les villageois m’ont répondu « oui » alors que je ne leur apportais aucune assurance… » Le village lui offre un hectare de terre à cultiver et un autre pour la construction d’un centre de formation. L’idée  : encourager les femmes à transformer elles-mêmes ce qu’elles produisent – en tissus, en bijoux, en vannerie.

Aujourd’hui, 150 femmes de Chô travaillent avec Awa, et plusieurs villages voisins veulent participer au projet. Un moyen d’assouvir sa permanente « quête d’alternative ». De soulager sa conscience, aussi. « Je ne vais pas mentir. En faisant cela, je trouve une satisfaction morale. Ces gens, je ne les aide pas, c’est moi-même que j’aide… »

*www.doualo.org

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